www.b50.org

CAD files kindly supplied by FGF.

Thankyou.

Yea, I thought you maybe, but there is no accounting for the whims of the moderator, I was having an uncontrollable moving frenzy! Sorry......

Moved this to Parts Wanted as I feel it should be here, if you object please let me know....

I believe they do!

Kind of depends what you are going to do with the bike, but yes and yes!

Ah, The Spotted Cow, one of my haunts from my youth!

Bravo FGF, would you create a topic here and upload the files please?

If you use a mm drill on your bike a BSA fairy will die, please use 1/8 inch.

to the forum nashnite, I'm sure someone will be along to answer your question soon, in the mean time would you update your profile and fill in your "location" to let everyone know roughly where you are please?

try this

Normally there is a half nut between them (and some washerage). Check out the parts list under the "Spare Parts" button above.

Leave the springs 'till last, you need to factor in the lock-down adipose layer.

TriSpark Website Two versions The 'A' type is for engines where the Tri-Spark trigger rotor turns CLOCKWISE (Brand "T" unit twins, Nothing Atlas, 1968 Commando, Henfield intercepter, Mellowcette) The 'B' type is for engines where the trigger rotor turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE (Nothing Commando 1969-75, ...

<135 to the forum bsalars , please note that the forum language is English (unless you are an Yank, Oz or Kiwi), and WTF have original paint, children and sandwiches got to do with the price of tea in China? Please add a picture, move to "off topic or something", one of my duties is to keep the foru...

Of course as eebrtr7 says I assume the volatile vertically challenged deity have been appeased!

Loss of compression comes from three places: 1. Valves. Assuming you tested your valve seal before putting the head back on, check you have tappet clearance and you valves fully close. 2. Head gasket. I know you have annealed your head gasket, and assuming you checked the head and cylinder top for f...

to the forum mach1z.

These are becoming hard to get hold of, there are also different nose lengths depending on your tank....anyway good luck, why not post a picture of your ride?

Well spotted JB!

Details of steering stem can be found here.

There were at least two versions on the electrics box top, one had AV mounts and another had rubber grommets, the lid on my bike shows evidence of being converted (it has holes and Roshan nuts of both methods) so it may be that the part you received was for a different lid. Anyway, there are very fe...

Try the search.....you get things like this, a sleeved 1/4in bolt...need someone to make a batch of these....

See this topic.

Heat and impact wrench....

Are you replacing the sliders or the stanchions? If the stanchions are going, there are lots more options....

That's the spirit!

Failing that, Mark Cook will make you one (might have one in stock), but he is the other side of the pond and all that entails....

This should not be an issue..............

Oh, I think (but not sure) that the later B50 style outer cover is different to the earlier ones (my 250 has the later one). The difference is in the gearbox mainshaft, the later ones have a ratchet that is the other way round meaning the quadrant and ratchet mechanisms are different and I think the...

The major difference is where the points wire exits, but clean up your old one first, despite the swarf it may be OK. I's investigate why it made the swarf in the first place, that nut doesn't look like it is on all the way, how much end float do you have on the mainshaft? Has the clutch fallen off?

I think that speedo uses a standard GPS antenna. I has something similar mounted on an old van I had, it eventually succumbed to water ingress. Knowing the size I would be tempted to try to hide it under the seat foam, so unless your arse is made of mu-metal it should perform quite well.

I guess you had it firing on TDC...with your eloquent writing skills I have to remind you (and everyone else) of the Tales of Woe section, I'm sure you are capable of recounting some ripping yarn that would raise our lock-down spirits.

Glad you got it sorted!

Don't forget to check the nuts after 50 miles and again later, as things bed in they will loosen up...

IMHO: The important ones are 1 - 4, and there are only 6 in total! I don't "Torque" them up, I pinch them all up then work round 1 - 4 nudging them up (and chase up 5 & 6) until they are tight, doing them up evenly...How tight? A good heave-ho on the end of the spanner for 1-4 and a good nudge on 5 ...

Motobellini1098 see two posts before yours?

It was sold four years ago.

You have to be a bit quicker than that!

I wouldn't put gunge anywhere near the oil pump, it is too close to the important bearings and is probably the one essential organ in the engine that needs to be right, fix it properly or get a new one (better one) or pay the price of a complete rebuild in a few miles.

Crikey beat, get well soon.

That will teach you for buying an old bike! When you take the head off you will find the liner cracked so off comes the barrel, then you'll see a worrying mark on the con rod, the oil pump, gearbox, frame, forks, swinging arm....and just to add a niggling doubt, how far in did the previous owner del...

I'm afraid beat I share Joshua's opinion on this matter (His triumph was heard throughout the land), but I know it has been a contentious issue for over 3000 years!

kommando wrote:advanced to keep the revs up

do you mean that?

Try this....or search.

You nutter!

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