www.b50.org

Roger

Victor500T wrote:download a workshop manual and parts book

Yes, I have these! But I didn't see that this step was specified in a particular order in the manual. So maybe I missed that. Thanks for the help!

Roger

midgie wrote:roger you need to screw in a 1/4" unf bolt then simply tap the bolt head to the side to break the taper.

Thanks Midgie. Do I screw the bolt into the timing plate side or the cam gear side?

Roger

Those things that bend are the spring anchors... Just TAP gently side to side and the whole plate will usually come off https://youtu.be/o3bPlWmetq8 I will try that first... Helpful vid BTW. Now I am feeling like a dolt for bending the spring anchors... What was i thinking? Should I get a new part ...

Roger

beat wrote:
Roger wrote: I bent these down.
if I got it right: this was NOT a very good idea.

I was wondering about that. Of course, I made the critical error of not asking this group first...

Roger

You.ve removed the advance/retard unit? Camshaft will just push out. I got stuck at this point. The advance/retard unit is on a plate that rotates with the camshaft, right? There are two little tabs opposite each other (arrows in image). I bent these down. But to no avail. So how do I remove the ad...

Roger

I am approaching the same issue on my B50. Somewhere I read that you can burn out the gunge with a propane flame?

Roger

Thanks guys. I am just getting back into this so want to proceed cautiously! I will check it out and report back!

Roger

Can anyone help? (Plaintive plea...)

Roger

I am back after a busy summer. As always, much gratitude to folks on this site for their help and advice. I have almost finished disassembling the crankcase. I am left with these three parts as you can see, including the cam drive and gear cluster. Question is how to separate these from the casings?...

Roger

So here's the top of the sump plate showing the (copper?) filter. The filter is soldered in, I think, as per Rupert Ratio (p. 41). As you can see, the filter seems to be degrading (note lower left patch with pieces of mesh missing), so I want to replace that. But given the filter is soldered in, I c...

Roger

I managed to tap an 8mm spanner onto the nut, and it came off easily enough. Not my preferred method, so I ordered a set of the BA spanners.

Roger

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions! Much appreciated.

Roger

minetymenace wrote:magnetic sump plug

Brilliant idea! Where can I get one?

Roger

Is there a way to figure out which BS spanner or socket to buy? Or shouid I invest in a Whitworth set of spanners?

Roger

And I worry about the random piece of metal flying around the crankcase... Probably ended up in the sump or sludge trap.

Roger

So here's a photo of the bottom left of the inner cover timing side. In the middle of the pic (just above the dowel on the cover's edge), there's a nut on the anchor bolt (kickstart return spring, #57-3764), but none of my standard spanners fits. The 3/8 is too large and the 5/16 is too small. So ho...

Roger

Well this doesn't look right.

It's the mainshaft bearing circlip, 76-0528. Will be replacing this.

Roger

minetymenace wrote:Long live the Queen!

Amen to that!

Roger

Just curious about the blue gasket thingie. Is that just a template or are you using something instead of the regular copper gasket?

Roger

beat wrote:I would NOT replace them for street use.

Thanks beat. Okay, I will leave the roller bearings alone. Do you think I should replace the other bearings though? (Just want to be double sure before I go through the expense and effort!)

Roger

kommando wrote:Big End bearing

Ah, good to know. Do you think that it's worth replacing those bearings (roller bearings, right?)? The engine has 3000 miles on it, and the other bearings look to be in good shape. (I'll have a better idea once I have them out.)

Roger

Based on my research and previous posts by this forum's knowledgable members, I have decided to go ahead and replace all the crankcase oil seals. However, my dilemma is the bearings. According to Rupert Ratio, servicing of the crankshaft assembly is "of a sort which is beyond the scope of most unit ...

Roger

Thanks Peter! I'll add this to the shopping list.

Roger

Would you recommend any of the P-lead adapter accessories if I was to use this to set timing on my B50?

Roger

I see a good thread here. This will answer some of my questions, but probably not all of them! viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7166

Roger

minetymenace wrote:The best place is the most expensive

Minety, could you explain what the best place is? I've already sunk enough money into this bike, that I might as well go the whole hog!

Roger

Barry Creary wrote:Worth the effort

Yup! Added to my to do list!

Roger

I have split the crankcases, and will remove the flywheel to get at the sludge trap (seen some good ideas how to do this). I read an article somewhere about how the sludge trap is not effective with modern engine oils that contain detergent, and the best option is to install an external oil filter. ...

Roger

Barry Creary wrote:
image.jpg
faced all flanges with fine wet and dry on a thick piece of glass

I saw that in the RR book. I guess if I have got this far I might as well do that as well. It seems straightforward enough!

Roger

So here's a pic of the alternator side inner crankcase cover removed. It looks in okay shape. Bearings seem smooth, but should I replace them anyway? (Engine has 3000 miles on the tach.) And I don't know what the marks are on the interior surface, looks like someone was bashing it with a hammer! Que...

Roger

Hi Malcoms Lad. A bit off topic but I saw you replaced the OEM cover fasteners with allen bolts. The philips one's on my B50 are pretty torn up, so I was wondering if you could tell me where you got them. Thanks!

Roger

its very easy to destroy the sludge trap bung. don't try to remove without applying heat as it may have been loctited, and ensure you have the best fitting impact driver bit. we don't want any tears! Heh, heh. Already shed blood, sweat and yes, tears, on this project. I remember reading another thr...

Roger

Woo hoo! The crankcases are split. :ban In the end it was easier than I thought. I just kept tapping the case in the area above the gear sprocket and they came apart, albeit spilling oil in various locations. But all good. Now on to the dreaded sludge trap and hopefully I can start checking things t...

Roger

matt49g wrote:Rupert Ratio has a full size drawing for a crankshaft pushing tool.

Thanks Matt. Is this the tool on p. 52 (Illus. 6.8)? I can't see how that would help me split the crankcases. Could you explain? Thank you!

Roger

Why do most of my post titles seem to be a how to question? Anyway, the crankcase bolt saga is over, thanks to the knowledge of the kind members of this forum. (I ground a half-inch socket to fit the bolts.) So now I want the split the inner primary drive side cover from the other half. The manuals ...

Roger

Finally, the bolts are out. I ground a 1/2" socket and the bolts came out quite easily. They're shot and convince me that someone previously working on the engine did a bodge job. So I have NOS replacements. Here's a photo of the blighters. (For some reason the forum format seems to turn the pics 90...

Roger

minetymenace wrote:Sort through them and pull out anything BSA single related, then send them to Rickard!

ebay the rest....

Sounds like a plan! Also I will donate some to the National Motorcycle Museum in Birmingham, and keep ones that feature bikes I've owned or that are BSA-related!

Roger

Back here in Blighty. Mum has me cleaning out the garage. There are several boxes of bike magazines, mostly Bike, Motorcycle Mechanics, and Superbike plus a bunch of posters, Isle of Man brochures, etc. from about 1979 to 1982. I estimate about 250 to 300 magazines altogether. I looked on Ebay and s...

Roger

I believe I have some somewhere. Let me check. Bear in mind that the mounts changed at one point.

Roger

If you have the frame number, this may be the VIN number used to register the bike. You can then ask the relevant DMV authority (starting with Maryland) to run a query. They should be able to show whether or not it was listed as stolen, and possibly list previous owners.

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