Interpret Rupert Ratio engine stand drawing

[Roger]

Here are the drawings for the Rupert Ratio engine stand. I am going to pay to get this made up (no welding kit here!). So I want to be sure this will work! Questions:
1) What is the flat plate with "two threaded rods welded on" used for?
2) On the engine, the front lug is lower than the rear lug, whereas on the drawing, it is reversed. Why is that?

Thanks as always!

[AWJD]

Looks about right to me - the front lug is higher.

I assume the flat plate and studs slide into the jig and the lower engine lug which is 4 1/2" wide and then provides lateral support/stability to the engine when its in the jig. Not sure why they need to be threaded?

[roadplough]

That is the worst working drawing I've ever seen.
And not a good design, the bottom (longitudinal) bar being near the middle restricts access to the sump and oil pipes.

Bottom mounting double stud ?????

[AWJD]

The design appears to give about 1" clearance under the centre of the engine which is probably sufficient to allow the sump plate to be removed/installed. It would be an easy matter to modify the design to give slightly more clearance if thought necessary.

[steve m]

i think Anita (P.E.S) made the best one i've seen. Mark posted a picture somewhere.

steve
edit: found it !
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4521&hilit=anita&start=40#p41554

[roadplough]

I guess the removable cross piece at the top is to allow the whole thing to lay on its side or to carry it about which is good but the bottom bar might be directly below the sump oil pick-up pipe, which is the problem with my (inherited) similar looking stand.

[Roger]

These are great comments! We obviously don't have the last word in engine stands, but Anita's set up looks great! Are there drawings for that, or should I just design my own?!

[Padleigh]

Just been to the garage and measured one of my stands, the front support is 1" higher than the rear. As you saw on the engine removal thread I just use three pieces of 2" angle iron. Centre heights I use are 8 1/2" rear, and 9 1/2" front. Drill one for 3/8" clearance and one 7/16", can`t remember which way round but i think the latter is the front. If you can`t weld a cross piece to the bottom of one of the legs drill and bolt. I`ve made loads of them and the longest job is finding the angle iron.

Brendan

Forgot to mention, the holes for the bolts front and rear need to be very close to the edge of your chosen material. If you have them in the centre of, say 2" angle, the support will foul the crankcase.

[AWJD]

The Rupert Ratio stand would be ok for most people given that 99% of the access needed is from the side or from above.

Nevertheless, the ability to tilt the engine in the stand would make side access and assembly/disassembly a lot easier and would certainly be a very nice to have feature. Only problem would be properly engineering the stand - it would then need to be bolted to a bench or the frame made a lot wider to give adequate stability.

I'm certainly tempted to have a go at making one provided I can design it to fit any unit BSA/Triumph engine!

[bacigalupo]

I have found that my trusty Black and Decker Workmate bench makes a reasonable work platform. The jaws can hold the engine by tightening on the sump.

Steve

[ripellett]

I like Anita's and Brendan's.
Having loads of spare Dexion shelving lying around I have used that to make engine stands, useful if you work on different bikes because it's easy to modify. Bolted together not welded.
Going back to my bike breaking days accident damaged frames made useable engine stands by just cutting out the bottom cradle and losing any inconvenient lugs. Perhaps difficult to justify cutting up BSA frames nowadays?
I guess there are loads of options.
Roy in England

[minetymenace]

For those without molten metal:
Uni-strut for ever! A tenner well spent at the electrical factors ...

[Roger]

What is Uni Strut?

[Padleigh]

What is Uni Strut?

Stuff that Electricians use to make access difficult for Fitters http://www.unistrut.co.uk/

[minetymenace]

Its a heavy duty framing system that uses U shaped channel. The channel can be drilled or comes slotted and special sprung loaded self locking nuts fit in the channel which slide up and down the channel until tightened. All sorts of angled brackets straight off the shelf. Magic.

[Roger]

So I have bought all the stuff to make the stand. Some pre-drilled angle iron, a wooden board, nuts, bolts and even casters so I can move the thing around. Watch this space!

[Padleigh]

So I have bought all the stuff to make the stand. Some pre-drilled angle iron, a wooden board, nuts, bolts and even casters so I can move the thing around. Watch this space!

The wood is not part of the stand, it was just used as a pallet so I could get the sack truck under and wheel it round to the workshop. No problem of course if you do want to attach a base.
The support does allow the cases to be split leaving the non drive side still supported and easy to work on. I realise that from an engineering point of view the single bolt and leg is not best practice but it seems more than adeqate. You could always weld a stretcher underneath but I prefer to keep everything accessible.

Brendan

[Roger]

Thanks Brendan! Here are some photos showing how I put my stand together.

Here are the items used to construct the engine stand.

First I cut the metal.

Then I found the center of the piece of ply and made all my measurements from there so the engine would fit squarely over the middle.

Then I drilled guide holes for each of the bolts, including holes for the casters.

Next, I drilled the holes for the bolts, which go through the wood.

After checking the alignment and measurements, I then attached the angle irons to the wood, using washers on each bolt and nut.The uprights were then bolted to the angle irons. Note that a little space under the uprights allows them to rotate slightly. This may be a problem if the engine can move to the side.

The casters were then attached. The casters are unidirectional and I could have used swiveling casters but thought that it would be harder to chock the board to prevent it from moving when working on the engine. I also stapled a piece of heavy duty plastic on the wood, to prevent oil soaking and possibly weakening the wood.

The finished product!

Of course, now I have the engine out, I can see if the stand will actually work!

[crankbuster]

Rupert Ratios stand:
All clear now and the sump does clear:

[steve m]

[Roger]

Looks solid! Not much room to get at engine from underneath though. Nice CAD!

[b50root]

Anyone who has the measurements in mm?

Rickard

[JeffB]

Hi all,
made one according to Rupert Ratio's pattern for me.
It works very well and has enough clearance for all work.
It can be laid on the side and is general stable.
The drawing in the RR book was good enough for me though
I am not a very skilled mechanic and reader of tech drawings.

Jeff

[Roger]

Unfortunately i do not have access to a welding kit, otherwise I certainly would have tried R R's set up!

[crankbuster]

Here is the metric version of Rupert's welded frame. Check the dimensions, especially around the rear lug..

[HPbyStan]

Daytona 600 National motor 2001

[Roger]

And the homemade non-welded stand does work! Yesterday I put the engine in the stand. It's not a precision fit but should be fine for the work I want to do. I like that it's on casters (which you can't see in this photo) so I can move it around easily.

[skippy]

Very good

[Roger]

Very good

Thanks Skippy!

[packw]

My new bike rebuild stand. It goes round and round and up and down of its own accord............but the price was right.
Cheers
Bill

[Roger]

Perfect for the frame! I need to get me one of those!