Hybrid

midgie · Post by **midgie** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 4:16 pm

I like it, looks almost fury ish following this project with much interest.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 4:40 pm

koncretekid wrote:I hope you can machine off the "Y*maha" on the side cover and replace it with "Yambsa" or perhaps "BSAmaha."

BSAYAWATI to be precise!

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:58 pm

Machined the head steady mounts over the weekend and also started fitting the tank.

Barry Creary · Post by **Barry Creary** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 6:09 pm

Nice work

beat · Post by **beat** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:52 pm

Barry Creary wrote:Nice work

just the wrong engine....

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:42 pm

beat wrote: just the wrong engine....

Depends on what you are looking for!

Barry Creary · Post by **Barry Creary** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:51 pm

Maybe we could vote on what to call it? I say Beezaha

skippy · Post by **skippy** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 3:35 am

Barry Creary wrote:Maybe we could vote on what to call it? I say Beezaha

I like that Barry

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 6:45 pm

Finally received my wheels back this afternoon, after getting them straightened I dropped them off at the powder coaters.

HPbyStan · Post by **HPbyStan** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 8:04 pm

Damn, Is that much braking even safe of a feather weight bike ?

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 8:26 pm

HPbyStan wrote:Damn, Is that much braking even safe of a feather weight bike ?

I had these front brakes on a 750 Ducati and they were not so good, so think they will suit the wee bike fine as long as I dont pull too hard on the front brake lever. It will be good for front wheel wheelies though!

HPbyStan · Post by **HPbyStan** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 11:26 pm

Sam wrote:
HPbyStan wrote:Damn, Is that much braking even safe of a feather weight bike ?
I had these front brakes on a 750 Ducati and they were not so good, so think they will suit the wee bike fine as long as I dont pull too hard on the front brake lever. It will be good for front wheel wheelies though!

Sure look good.

koncretekid · Post by **koncretekid** » Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:42 am

I'm pretty sure you won't need that rear brake .......................................................until you run out of road!
Tom

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Sat Sep 12, 2015 3:12 am

koncretekid wrote:I'm pretty sure you won't need that rear brake .......................................................until you run out of road!
Tom

I will for the MOT.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 8:17 pm

The eccentric chain adjusters had been abused in their previous life so I added a wee bit of weld then put them into the lathe and re-faced, them,I then countersunk the holes as far as I could without encroaching into the spindle area. Made up a couple of pin levers to help ease the pain of chain adjustment as well.

HPbyStan · Post by **HPbyStan** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 8:50 pm

Is your plan to adjust one side at a time or why not just use the tight axle or nut to turn the system to adjust it ?

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 10:01 pm

HPbyStan wrote:Is your plan to adjust one side at a time or why not just use the tight axle or nut to turn the system to adjust it ?

I made up two levers, I never gave a thought on the axle being tight that it would turn both sides after the pinch bolts being slackened off.

HPbyStan · Post by **HPbyStan** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 10:59 pm

Sam wrote:
HPbyStan wrote:Is your plan to adjust one side at a time or why not just use the tight axle or nut to turn the system to adjust it ?
I made up two levers, I never gave a thought on the axle being tight that it would turn both sides after the pinch bolts being slackened off.

HaHa, I've been using those swing arms on my flattracker frames since enough GPz Kaws got crashed in '84 on for them to start showing up in salvage.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 7:38 am

Remembered after goint to bed last night, I had a problem adjusting from one side on a race sidecar I had it would sometimes twist, to resolve that I machined a square on both sides of the swing arm spindle and an M10 internal thread to overcome this ( we were adjusting by using an eccentric on the pivot spindle) and then used a pear shape plate with matching square and a 6mm hole above this which was then secured to the eccentric. On one side the M10 allen bolt was welded to the plate. This was the side we adjusted from the other was able to be unscrewed and removed to allow dissasembly.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 8:16 pm

Almost a rolling chassis, I shall be able to work out shock position and lengths now!

One for you stan with the proverbial wooden block!

packw · Post by **packw** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 9:30 pm

SRX 600 and XT use external oil tanks, so the B50 top tube/front downtube will fulfill a useful need.

Personally, I really like this project, but there again, I do not subscribe to the notion that Small Heath could do no wrong so no one should mess with the original. This forum is living proof that there are many areas of weakness in the B50.
This project is, I agree, a very extreme way to fix them yet despite using only the B50 top tube and front downtube, it inherits four weaknesses:
1) dead oil in the rear of the top tube
2) hot oil recirculation via the filler tube
3) wrong frame oil level caused by the dipstick marking
4) weak steering stops

All of these can be fixed, but they should never have been in the original design to start with.

Good on ya, Sam!

Cheers
Bill

FYI, I attach a picture of the SRX600 frame with its bolt-on bottom tubes removed. It looks quite good I thought. The oil tank is that finned cast aluminium device behind the engine.

HPbyStan · Post by **HPbyStan** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 9:40 pm

"a Blocka wood's gotta do what a blocka wood's gotta do"

roadplough · Post by **roadplough** » Tue Sep 15, 2015 3:25 pm

packw wrote:All of these can be fixed, but they should never have been in the original design to start with.

Why not?
The OIF system is rather more sophisticated than simply pumping oil into the top of a box and directly extracting the same contaminated oil from the bottom.

dead oil in the rear of the top tube ?
Perhaps just half dead.

If oil in the rear tube was not circulating it would not get black or collect more and more sludge over time.

Max oil level is well above the opening of the front down tube, Min oil level on the stick is also above so oil must flow from the lower horizontal tube in order to enter the down tube, there is no other option.
Even when the oil level drops below minimum, oil squirting from the return must go through the front of the horizontal tube before it can enter the down tube.
Min oil level mark is at the top of that horizontal tube, the bottom of which is above the level of sludge in the settling pond.
As long as the oil level does not drop well below the min mark on the dip stick there's little chance of settled sludge getting into the down tube.
What's more I've never seen much sludge come out of the down tube when cleaning out the frame.

So I regard the BSA OIF as well thought out if not genius and apart from the type of power delivered by the pushrod single, is the main reason it's still my preferred bike 44 years later.

I trust the Japanese oil pump is capable of doing a job it was not necessarily designed to do.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:39 pm

You could solve the problem and fit an external catrige filter to the BSA but no need to with the yam as they had the foresight to fit a filter!!

packw · Post by **packw** » Tue Sep 15, 2015 10:03 pm

Hi roadplough,
I was referring to the errors that should not have been in the product released for production, not the basic design.

My point was that despite the massive amount of BSA content Sam's project has discarded, even the small remaining BSA content has basic flaws and needs changes.

I agree that a well engineered OIF is an excellent feature, but all the B50 needed to excel was a proper return line filter and actively using all of the frame oil volume. A "settling pond" seems to be an archaic principle by comparison.

Also, in my opinion, getting the dipstick marking so wrong would seem to conflict with any "genius" theory.

I attach a picture that always raises my spirits when I think of what developed B50s can do!

Cheers
Bill

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Tue Sep 22, 2015 11:09 am

Mock-up of the seat tail light unit.

koncretekid · Post by **koncretekid** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:49 am

I would use foam rubber glued in place instead of that block of wood and C-Clamps...........

Are you using mono-shock?

Tom

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:05 am

Twin shock !the box section is only for stability.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Mon Aug 08, 2016 8:03 am

Geez , well almost ten months since I last looked at this wee bike, had a good run of brewery work to take care of.
Finally found some inspiration to do something with this project first was to get the rearsets done so I could concentrate on the exhaust system.

Never throw anything out, had this dural plate kicking around the workshop since the late 90s. I knew it would come in handy some day.

nice and satin shiny

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Mon Aug 08, 2016 1:41 pm

Rear setd done so fabricated the exhaust stubs this morning.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Mon Aug 08, 2016 5:34 pm

On a roll now , headers tacked up. Shall roll some cones tomorrow and make a couple of reverse cone megaphones.

midgie · Post by **midgie** » Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:56 pm

looking good love the style.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 7:40 am

Electronic wizardrie has appeared

Motogadget M-unit

M-lock

Ignition transponder (key) for lack of a better word this is stitched into your glove and used to activate the ignition relay.

Post by **minetymenace** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 11:47 am

At work at the moment and can't see pictures (some sort of security thing I think), anyway, I have m-unit and m-lock on my Lemon. Works well. Are you using the m-switch? If you are, you have to disconnect it to program the m-unit...they don't tell you this in the manual. I like the self cancelling indicators, and will probably activate the accelerometer and see how the alarm works this weekend. The pain with the m-lock is that you have to re-program it every time you disconnect the battery, not big deal....unless you are on the road with the master tucked in the drawer at home!
The other thing about the m-lock, if you know how it is wired, you know how to defeat the security, and it is very simple, so if you are thinking of visiting Mr Hingley, best take a chain as well.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 12:38 pm

Yes the M-switch , cheers for the couple of pointers, im sure they caused a headache for you.
Sam

Post by **minetymenace** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 1:12 pm

I meant m-button above, m-switch had other problems. On the three switch version, one of the faces on the half with a single switch was 0.5mm proud and I had to mill it off. The three switch version is only clamps with one screw, not very good, especially when the hole is EXACTLY 22mm (both two and three switch versions), so even after modification a few turns of PTFE tape around the bars was necessary to make them clamp.
If you solder the wires on (rather than screw) do not apply too much heat....or the switch case melts....Oh! and if you have their indicators as well and are wondering how bright they are, I will tell you: They are bright enough to perform laser eye surgery.

You may also experience charging problems if your regulator has a sense wire, the volt drop across the m-lock may up the voltage on your battery, you may be able to connect the sense wire directly to the battery terminal, but beware of the quiescent current discharging your battery if this input is not switched.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 2:00 pm

I had searched the internet for reviews but found no negative feedback, I have contacted the UK supplier as the M-unit was deformed and the printing was only etched (difficult for someone who welds for a living to see) and not printed as I have seen on others, I thought this had slipped through quality control ... but seems as if this is how they are.
I have ordered two three button switch gear units but if they are misaligned they will be going back as I've ordered black anodised units with stainless buttons.

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 2:08 pm

Noiselisers cut and formed.

Post by **minetymenace** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 2:32 pm

Mine were black anodised too, but had them a long time before fitting and needed to get back on the road...I have bought stuff direct from Motogadget, takes weeks and communications were of the fob off type, so now get them from Stein Dinsein Germany, delivery normally within 48 hours, excellent after sales etc...and when you consider p&p cheaper as well.

Got a chrono classic on the .....er B50, but even I, am beginning to wonder if it exists....(bracing myself for a pisstake)

Sam · Post by **Sam** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 3:15 pm

minetymenace wrote:Mine were black anodised too, but had them a long time before fitting and needed to get back on the road...I have bought stuff direct from Motogadget, takes weeks and communications were of the fob off type, so now get them from Stein Dinsein Germany, delivery normally within 48 hours, excellent after sales etc...and when you consider p&p cheaper as well.

Got a chrono classic on the .....er B50, but even I, am beginning to wonder if it exists....(bracing myself for a pisstake)

I was looking at the Chromo classic for a TT2 that im building thought it would look quite trick, was that cheaper buying from Germany than in the UK?

Do you think this topic should be on this forum (1 = Yes, 10 = No)